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It seems we didn’t have to attend till January to see Sabato De Sarno’s first seems for Gucci menswear. Final night time, the brand new artistic director, tapped earlier this 12 months to implement a wholesale artistic reset on the Italian home, hit the purple carpet on the LACMA Artwork + Movie Gala in Los Angeles. A$AP Rocky, Pedro Pascal, Andrew Garfield, and Elliot Page joined him, carrying what a press launch described as De Sarno’s “first steps into formal menswear” for Gucci.
Welcome to the De Sarno period. The glammed-out baroque prospers that outlined his predecessor Alessandro Michele’s formalwear are out. In? A assured sense of subtlety—and a few heavy-duty footwear.
De Sarno’s womenswear debut, in September, revealed that the Prada and Valentino alum works in understated cool somewhat than eccentricity. Which is precisely how Rocky seemed in his easy black double-breasted tuxedo. De Sarno is clearly obsessive about the finer factors of match and line—this can be a man who reportedly has a set of some 200 coats. On Rocky, he’s reviving the straight-cut Italian fits of the ’90s, based on the press launch. The jacket has sq. shoulders, trim by the waist. His trousers, with a whisper of a slouch, have a snug break on the hem. The one remotely flashy a part of the outfit is a brassy “Double G” emblem button, pulled out of the archive from the ’70s, when such buttons could possibly be discovered throughout Gucci equipment. For his first hints of menswear, De Sarno gave us precisely that—hints, not fireworks.
After all, in 2023, purple carpets demand a sure look-at-me high quality. On Pascal and Garfield, De Sarno confirmed off a barely flashier facet to his males’s designs. Pascal’s smooth black tuxedo has white piping, the buttons hidden behind the flat entrance, the lapels lower excessive over his naked chest. Is that this one other reference to the ’90s? The skimpy and leather-heavy bits of De Sarno’s ladies’s assortment echoed the hedonist world Tom Ford’s created at Gucci in that decade, and Pascal’s tux, with its shiny sheen and pajama trim, feels of a bit with Ford’s louche—and newly relevant—imaginative and prescient. As does Garfield’s go well with, a single-breasted model of the piped tuxedo, lower within the deep maroon of “Rosso Ancora,” the brand new Gucci home colour.
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